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Vidur’s Travel Diary – 14 : Sarnath

Posted on July 4, 2012 by VIDUR [ Kamal Nayan Chaturvedi ]

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA JULY 04 , 2012 01.05 A.M.

On the morning of June 17 , 2012 , I started for my native place Deoria from Varanasi . I decide to visit Sarnath , which is world-famous centre of Buddhist religion and is just 13 km. away from Varanasi on Varanasi – Gorakhpur national highway . This was my second visit of Sarnath . I had earlier visited this place almost 30 years back .

It is here in the Mrigadava [ deer park ] , Gautam Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment in Bodh Gaya . According to Buddhist folklore , Lumbini , Bodh Gaya , Sarnath and Kushinagar are the four most important places connected with the life of Gautam Buddha . Lumbini [ Place of his Birth ] , Bodh Gaya [ Place of his Enlightenment ] , Sarnath [ Place of his First Sermon or Dhammachakkappavattan ] and Kushinagar [ Place of his Nirvana ] are pilgrimage centre and visited by devout Buddhists .

Out of these 4 holy cities of Buddhist religion , I have visited 2 cities . Kushinagar was a tehsil headquarter in Deoria district and now it is a separate district . It is 34 km. away from Deoria . I have visited it many times . And this time it was my second visit to Sarnath .

Buddha gave his first sermon or Dhammachakkappavattan in Sarnath . He also spent his first rainy season at Mulagandha Kuti .

Two pillars at the two sides of the road indicate the starting of the boundary of Sarnath .

Main Entrance of Sarnath City

Main Road of Sarnath City

Mulagandhakuti Vihara is a modern monastery built in 1930 by king of Sri Lanka Anagarika Dharamapala . It has a golden statue of Gautam Buddha and beautiful murals on the inner walls .

Mulagandhakuti Vihara Buddhist Temple – Sarnath

My Wife at Mulagandhakuti Vihara Buddhist Temple – Sarnath

Inside Mulagandhakuti Vihara Buddhist Temple – Sarnath

Outside Mulagandhakuti Vihara Buddhist Temple – Sarnath

My Wife Outside Mulagandhakuti Vihara Buddhist Temple – Sarnath

Statue of Anagarika Dharamapala , King of Sri Lanka , Who Built The Temple

The Inscription

Dhamek Stupa is another important shrine . It is 128 feet high and 93 feet in diameter .

The Dhamekh Stupa – Sarnath

Me & My Wife At The Dhamekh Stupa – Sarnath

Very close to Dhamek Stupa , in Singhpur village , there is birthplace of Shreyansnatha , the 11th Tirthankara of Jainism . A temple is built on that holy place .

Birthplace of Shreyansnath , 11th Tirthankara of Jainism

At Statue of Buddha Giving First Sermon to His Desciples

At Statue of Buddha Giving First Sermon to His Disciples

My Wife At Statue of Buddha Giving First Sermon to His Desciples

My Wife At Statue of Buddha Giving First Sermon to His Disciples

Bell , Donated by Dalai Lama

The latest in the list of temple is a Thai temple . It has a gigantic statue of Gautam Buddha .

Thai Temple – Sarnath

Me & My Wife at Thai Temple – Sarnath

Buddha Statue – Thai Temple – Sarnath

Main Entrance of Sarnath City

Sarnath is a small town . I completed my visit within few hours and after visiting local museum proceeded for Markandeya Mahadev temple in Aundihar . I have written about that temple in my travel diary of Varanasi .

Like Varanasi , Sarnath is also not a remote place . I intend to visit it again in winters . But again the same feeling ; who knows ?

पार्श्व गिरि का नम्र चीड़ों में , डगर चढ़ती उमंगों सी ;

बिछी पैरों में नदी ज्यों दर्द की रेखा , विहग शिशु मौन नीड़ों में ;

मैंने आँख भर देखा , दिया मन को दिलासा ;

पुनः आऊँगा , भले ही बरस दिन , अनगिन युगों के बाद ;

क्षितिज ने पलक सी खोली , दमक कर दामिनी बोली ;

” अरे यायावर ! रहेगा याद ? “

………………………………………………..अज्ञेय

[ Tenderness of mighty mountains reflected in pine trees ,

Upward moving pathways symbolizing my enthusiasm ,

River , flowing deep down like a line of pain ,

Tiny tots of birds sitting silently in their nest ,

I saw everything with contentment ,

Consoled myself , I would come again ,

After a year or may be after ages ..........

Horizon opened its eyes , lightning dazzled in the sky ,

As if saying ..................

O Wanderer ! Would you ever even remember ? ]

VIDUR

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA

Buddhist Places of Interest in India (relijournal.com)
Learning from Buddha at Sarnath (rveblade.xanga.com)
The Jewel in the Lotus (richardgilliveronbuddhism.wordpress.com)
In the land of the Buddha (thehindu.com)

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Vidur’s Travel Diary – 13 : Varanasi

Posted on July 3, 2012 by VIDUR [ Kamal Nayan Chaturvedi ]

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA JULY 03 , 2012 01.15 A.M.

Varanasi or Benaras or Kasi or Kashi , this old and perennial city of India , which symbolises Hindu ethos and its timeless tradition , is a new metropolis , yet it existed and started its journey several millennium ago . As per tradition and folklore it is 5000 years old city . Its mythical and cultural name is Kashi . Rigveda mentions this city as Kasi or Kashi . During British era the name was changed and the city came to be known as Benaras . After independence the city was rechristened as Varanasi . Varuna and Assi are two rivers , which caress the city from two sides , hence the city was rechristened as Varanasi .

Varanasi predates history . It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities of the world and the oldest city in India . As per Hindu mythology this city rests on the trident of Bhagwan Shiva . This city is closely associated with the legendary Raja Harishchandra , an ancestor of Bhagwan Ram . Harishchandra ghat still exists and bears his name and reminds us of his supreme sacrifices in pursuit of truth . Along with AYODHYA , MATHURA , MAYA [ HARIDWAR ] , KANCHI , AVANTIKA [ UJJAIN ] and DWARKA , Varanasi , for the Hindus , is the 7th Holiest Cities of India . I consider myself lucky and fortunate that I have chance to visit all the above mentioned seven cities .

I have been to Varanasi several times . I first visited this city with my parents and other siblings , while I was a toddler . It was for the MUNDAN [ Tonsure Ceremony ] of my younger brother . I still remember my first journey to Varanasi by train . I was a kid and I used to converse with my parents only in Bhojpuri . My father insisted that while in Varanasi , we all must converse in Hindi . I was finding it difficult and avoided speaking throughout the journey .

I have visited this city numerous times since then . Every year when I visit my native place Deoria , I have to make a halt either at Varanasi or Lucknow . This year in June , I took a morning flight from Mumbai on June 16 , 2012 and along with my wife , landed there in the afternoon . Varanasi now has a swanky and sprawling airport . Old airport was not worthy of the reputation of this ancient city . This new Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport is truly impressive .

Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport – Varanasi

Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport – Varanasi

I took a cab and drove to Hotel Gautam Grand near Varanasi Cant station .

Hotel Gautam Grand – Varanasi

When in Varanasi , you have to enjoy the crowded lanes and by-lanes of this mythical yet modern metropolis . Godaulia is the nerve – centre of the city .

Godaulia – Varanasi

The world-famous Kashi Vishwanath Temple is one of the 12 JYOTIRLINGAS of Bhagwan Shiva in India . You dare not afford to miss this shrine . The old temple , built by Adi Shankaracharya in 8th century , was destroyed by Mughal emperor Aurangzeb , who built a mosque on the ruins of this temple , which , today , is known as Gyanvapi mosque . The present Kashi Vishwanath temple was built by Ahilya Bai Holkar of Indore in 1717 . This temple was adorned by Maharaja Ranjit Singh , who donated 820 k.g. gold in 1889 .

Kashi Vishwanath Temple – Entrance

World Famous Lane of Vishwanath Temple

Gyanvapi, the original holy well between the temple and mosque (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

After darshan of Kashi Vishwanath temple , you proceed to Dashashwamedha Ghat , where Ganga Aarti is performed in the evening . Dashashwamedha Ghat was built by Maharaja Savai Jai Singh II in 1693 . It is one of the 100 ghats of Varanasi . Originally Ganga Aarti was started in Haridwar by Mahamana Madan Mohan Malaviya . Few years back it was started in Varanasi also and today it is major tourist attraction .

Ganga Arti – Varanasi

Apart from Dashashwamedha ghat , Kedar ghat and Harishchandra ghat are other two major ghats of Varanasi .

Kedar Ghat – Varanasi

Harishchandra Ghat – Varanasi

Godaulia – Varanasi at Night

A British Era Church at Godaulia

Sankat Mochan temple is the another famous temple of Varanasi . According to the folklore , Sant Tulsidas worshipped here and Bhagwan Hanuman gave him darshan . After Kashi Vishwanath temple , it is the 2nd most revered temple of Varanasi for Hindus .

Sankat Mochan Temple

Varanasi is famous for Sants like Tulsi Das , Kabir Das , Ravi Das , Tailang Swami and Keena Ram . Tailang Swami and his disciple Keena Ram Baba followed AGHOR PANTH . Keena Ram Baba is most famous exponent of AGHOR PANTH . I visited his Ashram also . This was my first visit . I visited it twice . First visit was in the afternoon of June 16th and the second one was next day , on June 17 , 2012 .

The Ashram of Keena Ram Baba – Main Entrance

At The Ashram of Keena Ram Baba

The Ashram of Keena Ram Baba

The Ashram of Keena Ram Baba – Residence

At Keena Ram Baba Ashram

My Wife at The Ashram of Sant Keena Ram

I left Varanasi on June 17 , 2012 in the morning . While proceeding towards Sarnath and Aundihar , I started remembering several luminaries of Indian history , who were born in Varanasi and spent their lives in this city .

Notable residents of Varanasi

Trailanga Swamy, Great Spiritual Leader
Sir James Brooke, founder of the White Rajah dynasty of Sarawak
Premchand, famous Hindi writer
Madan Mohan Malaviya, Founder of the Banaras Hindu University
Lal Bahadur Shastri, Former Prime Minister of India, Bharat Ratna
Bismillah Khan, Shehnai player, Bharat Ratna
Channulal Mishra, Hindustani Classical player, Padma Bhushan
Kishan Maharaj, Tabla player, Padma Vibhushan
Ravi Shankar, Sitar player, Bharat Ratna
Siddheshwari Devi, Khayal singer, Padma Shri
Vikash Maharaj, Sarod Maestro
Naina Devi, Khayal singer
Bhagwan Das, Bharat Ratna
Sameer, Lyricist
Pandit Birju Maharaj
Girija Devi, Padma Bhushan
Ritwik Sanyal, Dhrupad
Sitara Devi, Padma Shri
Rai Krishnadasa., Padma Vibhushan
Gopinath Kaviraj, Padma Vibhushan
K.L. Shrimali, Padma Vibhushan
Uday Shankar, Padma Vibhushan
Rani Lakshmibai
Kabir Das
Tulsi Das
Ravidas
Bharatendu Harishchandra
Shamta Prasad (Gudai Maharaj) Tabla player, Padma Shri
Jaishankar Prasad
Kashi Naresh, last king of Varanasi
Devendra Nath Dwivedi, was an Indian politician and the Governor designate of Gujarat. He has been General Secretary of AICC, Additional Solicitor General of India & Supreme Court Lawyer. He was a Congress member of the Rajya Sabha from 1974 to 1980.
Kamalapati Tripathi, was the writer, journalist, editor and freedom fighter was a senior Indian National Congress leader from Varanasi. He has been Chief Minister of Uttar Pradesh as well as the Union Minister for Railways.
Baldev Upadhyaya, was a renowned Hindi, Sanskrit scholar, literary historian, essayist and critic.Padma Bhushan
Devaki Nandan Khatri was a writer, who belonged to the first generation of popular novelists in the modern Hindi language.

Temple of Markandeya Mahadev in Aundihar is another famous shrine of Bhagwan Shiv , which I visited with my wife , while on my way to Deoria .

At Markandeya Mahadev Temple – Aundihar

My Wife at Markandeya Mahadev Temple – Aundihar

Varanasi is not a remote place for me . It is in between Mumbai and Deoria . I can and will visit it as long as I am alive . But then being alive is the big , unknown and unanswered question . Who knows it is my last visit or not ? Who knows whether I would be able to visit it again or not ?

I started for Deoria with heavy heart . Though I do hope to visit Varanasi again in winters for Allahabad Kumbh mela . Lines of Agyeya come running in my mind :

पार्श्व गिरि का नम्र चीड़ों में , डगर चढ़ती उमंगों सी ;

बिछी पैरों में नदी ज्यों दर्द की रेखा , विहग शिशु मौन नीड़ों में ;

मैंने आँख भर देखा , दिया मन को दिलासा ;

पुनः आऊँगा , भले ही बरस दिन , अनगिन युगों के बाद ;

क्षितिज ने पलक सी खोली , दमक कर दामिनी बोली ;

” अरे यायावर ! रहेगा याद ? “

………………………………………………..अज्ञेय

[ Tenderness of mighty mountains reflected in pine trees ,

Upward moving pathways symbolizing my enthusiasm ,

River , flowing deep down like a line of pain ,

Tiny tots of birds sitting silently in their nest ,

I saw everything with contentment ,

Consoled myself , I would come again ,

After a year or may be after ages ..........

Horizon opened its eyes , lightning dazzled in the sky ,

As if saying ..................

O Wanderer ! Would you ever even remember ? ]

VIDUR

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA

Wandering the Ghats of Varanasi (roadtoithaca.com)
Wandering the Ghats of Varanasi II (of III) (roadtoithaca.com)
Varanasi, A visit to the Ghats – Varanasi, India (travelpod.com)
purity and danger (telegraphindia.com)
Life and Death (zephyrani.wordpress.com)
Along the Ghats, Varanasi, India (milestotravel.wordpress.com)
Itty-Bitty Travel Guide: Varanasi (amandaclaire.me)
Notes on the India Series (allibander.wordpress.com)
A boat ride, Varanasi, India (milestotravel.wordpress.com)
India in a blog post (dougwallack.wordpress.com)

Filed under: Travel Diaries | Tagged: Vidur Chaturvedi, Acting Trainer, Diction Trainer, Hindi Teacher, Vidur, Vidur's Blog, Vidur on Twitter, Kamal Nayan Chaturvedi, Deoria, Uttar Pradesh, India, Mumbai, Bhojpuri language, Raja Harishchandra, Lucknow, Lal Bahadur Shastri, Ayodhya, Mathura, Maya, Haridwar, Kashi, Varanasi, Kanchi, Avantika, Ujjain, Dwarka, Banaras Hindu University, Vishwanath Temple, MUMBAI - MAHARASHTRA - INDIA, Hindu, Travel Diary, Vidur's Travel Diary, Agyeya, Travelogue, Maharani Lakshmi Bai, Uday Shankar, Ahilyabai Holkar, Kashi Vishwanath Temple, James Brooke, Madan Mohan Malaviya, Ganges, Banaras, Benaras, Kasi, Rigveda, Bhagwan Ram, Satyavaadi Raja Harishchandra, Bhagwan Shiva, Bhagwan Shankar, Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport, Godaulia, Dashashwamedha Ghat, Ganga Aarti, Jyotirlinga, Adi Shankaracharya, Aurangzeb, Gyanvapi Mosque, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, Maharaja Savai Jai Singh II, Kedar Ghat, Harishchandra Ghat, Hanuman Mandir Varanasi, Sankat Mochan Temple Varanasi, Sant Tulsi Das, Kabir Das, Sant Ravi Das, Tailang Swami, Sant Keena Ram, Aghor Panth, Premchand, Bismillah Khan, Kishan Maharaj, Ravi Shankar, Siddheshwari Devi, Bhagwan Das, Pandit Birju Maharaj, Girija Devi, Sitara Devi, Rai Krishna Dasa, Gopinath Kaviraj, Bharatendu Harishchandra, Gudai Maharaj, Jaishankar Prasad, Kamalapati Tripathi, Baldev Upadhyaya, Devaki Nandan Khatri, Markandeya Mahadev Aundihar, Kumbh Mela | 2 Comments »

Vidur’s Travel Diary – 12 : Naggar & Manikaran [ Kullu ]

Posted on June 30, 2012 by VIDUR [ Kamal Nayan Chaturvedi ]

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA JUNE 30 , 2012 01.00 A.M.

As I have written in my travel diary of Manali , I had a lot of free time in Manali . I made good use of it and visited all the important places in and around Manali .

People told me about Naggar and Manikaran and I decided to visit these places also . So on March 29 , 2012 , when I had no work , I decided to go to Naggar . I hired a cab and started for my journey early in the morning . Naggar is in between Kullu and Manali . It is 22 km. from Manali and 26 km. from Kullu . Naggar was the capital of kings of Kullu for about 1400 years .

Road to Naggar is surrounded by snow – capped mountains and the castle , known as Naggar Castle , is awesome . It is now known as Castle Hotel . This magnificent building of stone and wood was constructed during the reign of Raja Sidh Singh .

Naggar : Surrounded by Snow – Capped Hills

At Naggar Castle

Naggar Castle

Naggar Castle – Main Entrance

Naggar Castle – Inner Courtyard

Naggar Castle – Restaurant

Naggar Castle – At The Restaurant

Naggar Castle – The Temple

Naggar Castle – The Corridor

Naggar Castle – The Balcony

Snow – Capped Mountains As Seen From Naggar Castle

A little away from Naggar Castle , there is memorial of late Nicholas Roerich , the Russian painter . His villa is set in a beautiful garden and it houses many of his famous paintings . After Naggar Castle , I visited Roerich Art Gallery next .

For me Roerich Villa has an added attraction . Nicholas Roerich’s son Svetoslav Roerich , himself a famous painter , married Devika Rani . She , away from the hustle – bustle of Bombay Talkies and Bombay city , spent many years of her life here . I was eager to see her room , where she stayed whenever she visited Naggar . After death of her first husband Himanshu Rai , she left Bombay [ now Mumbai ] and lived either in Bangalore [ now Bengaluru ] or Naggar .

Road From Naggar Castle to Roerich Memorial

Svetoslav Roerich & Devika Rani Memorial – Naggar [ The Pathway ]

Svetoslav Roerich & Devika Rani Memorial – Naggar

Svetoslav Roerich & Devika Rani Memorial – Naggar [ Verandah ]

Svetoslav Roerich & Devika Rani Memorial – Naggar

Svetoslav Roerich & Devika Rani Memorial – Naggar [ Staircase ]

Svetoslav Roerich & Devika Rani Memorial – Naggar

Svetoslav Roerich & Devika Rani Memorial – Naggar [ Surrounding ]

This main gate of the ground floor of Roerich Villa leads to the art gallery , where many precious and priceless paintings of Roerichs are displayed .

Svetoslav Roerich & Devika Rani Memorial – Naggar [ Entrance ]

Svetoslav Roerich & Devika Rani Memorial – Naggar [ Roerich Paintings ]

I bought a coffee – table book about Devika Rani and surveyed the Villa for the last time and then proceeded for Manikaran . Situated in the Parvati Valley and on the banks of Parvatiriver , Manikaran is famous for its hot springs . You can easily cook food in the boiling hot water . These streams are very close to ice – cold Parvati River . It is one of the wonders of Kullu district .

Way To Manikaran

On Way To Manikaran

Gurudwara at Manikaran

Hot Water Spring at Manikaran

At Hot Water Spring at Manikaran

I finished my visit after visiting the Manikaran gurudwara and proceeded for Manali .

These are remote places . Even if I visit Manali again , I am not sure whether I would be visiting Manikaran again or not . On my return journey to Manali , I remembered Agyeya‘s famous lines and reached my hotel in the late evening .

पार्श्व गिरि का नम्र चीड़ों में , डगर चढ़ती उमंगों सी ;

बिछी पैरों में नदी ज्यों दर्द की रेखा , विहग शिशु मौन नीड़ों में ;

मैंने आँख भर देखा , दिया मन को दिलासा ;

पुनः आऊँगा , भले ही बरस दिन , अनगिन युगों के बाद ;

क्षितिज ने पलक सी खोली , दमक कर दामिनी बोली ;

” अरे यायावर ! रहेगा याद ? “

………………………………………………..अज्ञेय

[ Tenderness of mighty mountains reflected in pine trees ,

Upward moving pathways symbolizing my enthusiasm ,

River , flowing deep down like a line of pain ,

Tiny tots of birds sitting silently in their nest ,

I saw everything with contentment ,

Consoled myself , I would come again ,

After a year or may be after ages ..........

Horizon opened its eyes , lightning dazzled in the sky ,

As if saying ..................

O Wanderer ! Would you ever even remember ? ]

VIDUR

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA

Dizzying Snow-capped Peaks of Manali (ani-shah.com)
In the beautiful mountains (trektraveltadka.wordpress.com)
Travel Guest Post: Mesmerizing Beauty of Kullu Manali & Shimla (jetsetera.net)
A Himalayan resort made of dry stacking of stone and wood without cement (ecofriend.com)
Manali is considered to be the Best Place for Honeymoon in India (theholidayindia.wordpress.com)
Manali – The Queen of beauty (zeopodes.wordpress.com)

Filed under: Travel Diaries | Tagged: Acting Trainer, Bombay Talkies, Devika Rani, Diction Trainer, Film, Himachal Pradesh, Himanshu Rai, Hindi Poet Agyeya, Hindi Teacher, Kamal Nayan Chaturvedi, Kings of Kullu, Kullu, Manali, Manali Himachal Pradesh, Manikaran, MUMBAI - MAHARASHTRA - INDIA, Naggar, Naggar Castle, Nicholas Roerich, Parvati, Parvati River, Parvati Valley, Raja Sidh Singh of Kullu, Roerich Art Gallery, Roerich Villa, Svetoslav Roerich, Travel Diary, Vidur, Vidur Chaturvedi, Vidur on Twitter, Vidur's Blog, Vidur's Travel Diary, Vidur's Travelogue | Leave a Comment »

Vidur’s Travel Diary – 11 : Manali

Posted on June 19, 2012 by VIDUR [ Kamal Nayan Chaturvedi ]

DEORIA – UTTAR PRADESH – INDIA JUNE 19 , 2012 11.45 P.M.

It is much delayed blog . I wanted to write and post it immediately after my return from Manali on April 10 , 2012 but couldn’t do it because of my eye operation . Then there were other works like ; training actors and writing my book on acting and this particular blog got postponed and delayed . I decided to complete it and post it today , while sitting in the office cum study of my Deoria house .

One day while I was in my class in Mumbai , I got a call from Karan Johar’s Dharma Productions . They wanted me to train the stars of their new film which stars Ranbir Kapoor , Deepika Padukone , Kalki Koechlin and Aditya Roy Kapoor . And for that they wanted me to travel to Manali for a month . I jumped at the idea because Himachal Pradesh , along with the Union Territory of Chandigarh , are the only provinces of North India , which I have not visited yet . And my second temptation was that I would be able to meet Ranbir Kapoor after a long time , whom I have trained for ” Saawariya “ . In addition to that I would get an opportunity to work with Deepika Padukone and Kalki Koechlin also .

Map of India showing location of Himachal Pradesh (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

From Mumbai , I took early morning flight for Chandigarh on March 18 , 2012 . I reached Chandigarh and proceeded for Manali by car , I saw this Union Territory for the first time . Chandigarh is the first planned city of independent India . I was simply amazed . Swanky airport , 4 / 6 lane roads , gigantic traffic islands and neatly maintained colonies ; Chandigarh is pride of India .

Chandigarh Airport

A Traffic Island of Chandigarh

I could not watch much because I was put in a car and immediately proceeded for 310 km. long road journey to Manali . My impression of Chandigarh is what I could see through the window of a speeding car .

Travelling time to Manali from Chandigarh is 11 hours . As soon as I entered Himachal Pradesh , hills started. Snow capped mountains and rocky landscape is beautiful and breathtaking . As per Hindu legends Manali is associated with Manu , who started procreation on the pious land of Manali after the great deluge , MAHAPRALAY , the end of the world . It happened in SATYUGA . Manali is also associated with Maharshi Shringi , who performed PUTRESHTI YAGYA for King Dhasharath and thus the king got 4 sons ; Rama , Bharat , Lakshman and Shatrughna . It happened in TRETAYUGA . In DWAPARYUGA , Arjun worshipped Shiva in a cage near Manali and got PASHUPATASTRA . His elder brother Bheem married Hidimba here and had a son Ghatotkach . Thus from SATYUGA to TRETEYUG to DWAPARYUG , Manali is closely associated with our history , culture and ethos .

Known as Queen of Hill Stations , Manali is situated at an altitude of 2050 metres and is 40 km. away from Kullu , the district headquarters . One can reach Manali by road via Chandigarh or you can take a flight to Kullu and then proceed for Manali by car .

Sunset – On Way to Manali

A Road Side Restaurant – On Way To Manali

After 11 hour-long car journey from Chandigarh , I reached Manali and was put at Hotel Quality Inn River Country Resort . Chilli winds greeted me at the arrival . I was forced to take out my woollen jacket . I was amazed at the difference of weather condition in India . When I left Mumbai , its temperature was 35 degree celsius . In Manali inside the room heater was on .

Hotel Quality Inn River Country is a fabulous hotel . It’s only drawback is that it is 2/3 km. away from the Mall Road , main market of Manali .

Quality Inn River Country Resort – Manali

My Room in Quality Inn River Country Resort – Manali

Manali city is evenly divided in two parts by Bias river . I could see the streams of Bias through the window of my hotel room .

River Bias Which Flows & Devides Manali In 2 Parts

River Bias Which Flows & Divides Manali In 2 Parts

River Bias – Another View

Way To Mall Road – Manali

It is not easy to get autos in Manali and that too for a short distance . So next day I gathered courage and walked to The Mall . And I was hooked . A small but beautiful market welcomed me . One can buy woolen clothes from various shops . It is made of pure wool and cheaper also .

Mall Road – Manali

Rain Washed Mall Road

Due to some prior booking at the Quality Inn River Country Resort , I had to shift to another place , Hotel Piccadilly , after a week . It is again a beautiful hotel with some minus points . It’s main plus point is that it is situated at the Mall . So shopping and even strolling is easy and convenient .

Hotel Piccadilly – Manali

Hotel Manu Allaya is another fabulous hotel where I used to go to train Kalki Koechlin .

Hotel Many Allaya – Manali

A Corridor of Hotel Many Allaya – Manali

Reception Hotel Manu Allaya – Manali

At Hotel Manu Allaya – Manali

As I have stated earlier , Manali city is divided in two parts by river Bias . City is situated on both the banks of Bias and beyond that there is snow – capped mountains on both sides . Weather is simply heavenly and salubrious .

Rohtang Pass Road

Manali – East of the River Bias

A Bridge on Bias – Connecting East & West Manali

Panoramic Views of Manali

Panoramic View of Manali

Sun Sets on Manali

River Bias in Manali

Jungal Near Mall – Manali

Colourful Tibetan monastery is another landmark place . It is situated near the Mall .

Tibetan Monastery

I never knew that Hidimba of MAHABHARAT belonged to Manali . There is a pagoda like temple dedicated to Hidimba , known as Devi Hadimba in popular parlance . King Bhadur Shah built this temple in 1553 . This four tiered pagoda shaped temple is made of wood . Front door is carved with figures and symbols and is also made of wood . King Bhadur Shah was very happy to see the temple when it was completed . As per local tradition , king ordered to cut off the hand of the person who made this temple , so that he can not replicate this temple elsewhere . Undaunted by this misfortune , the artiste trained his left hand and made even better version of this temple at Trilokinath in Chamba district . It is so unfortunate that local people thought that this masterpiece should not be made anywhere , so they chopped off the head of that artiste . That poor nameless fellow lost his hand first and his life later on , for creating two masterpieces .

Hadimba Temple – Manali

At Hadimba Temple – Manali

Wooden Main Gate of Hadimba Temple – Manali

Deodar Lined Path of Hadimba Temple

In the compound and vicinity of Hadimba temple , one can see yaks in abundance . I myself saw a yak for the first time in the compound of Hadimba temple .

Yak at Hadimba Temple – Manali

Span Spa & Resort is a marvellous property , which is though modern but still steeped in tradition . It is situated few km. away from Manali on the banks of Bias .

Span Resort – Manali

How come someone complete any travelogue of Manali without going to Rohtang Pass . At an altitude of 3980 metres , Rohtang Pass is situated 51 km. away from Manali . This pass connects Manali to Leh in Ladakh . It is open for public from June to September every year . So when I was there , it was closed . Road was cleared till Gulaba only . So I did not get the opportunity to visit Rohtang Pass . I went up to Gulaba only . Despite inclement weather , I enjoyed my 5 day consecutive visits to the place . 4/5 layers of woollen clothes were not sufficient even in the month of April .

On The Way – From Manali to Rohtang Pass

Gulaba – in-between Manali & Rohtang Pass

At Gulaba – in-between Manali & Rohtang Pass

Sun Sets At Gulaba – in-between Manali & Rohtang Pass

Manali – Leh Highway via Rohtang Pass

I reached Manali in the night of March 18 , 2012 . Stayed there for 21 days . It was a different experience . I thoroughly enjoyed my paid holiday , courtesy Dharma Productions .

After every visit I remember Hindi poet Agyeya’s lines . In the case of Manali , these oft – repeated lines are more pertinent and relevent .

पार्श्व गिरि का नम्र चीड़ों में , डगर चढ़ती उमंगों सी ;

बिछी पैरों में नदी ज्यों दर्द की रेखा , विहग शिशु मौन नीड़ों में ;

मैंने आँख भर देखा , दिया मन को दिलासा ;

पुनः आऊँगा , भले ही बरस दिन , अनगिन युगों के बाद ;

क्षितिज ने पलक सी खोली , दमक कर दामिनी बोली ;

” अरे यायावर ! रहेगा याद ? “

………………………………………………..अज्ञेय

[ Tenderness of mighty mountains reflected in pine trees ,

Upward moving pathways symbolizing my enthusiasm ,

River , flowing deep down like a line of pain ,

Tiny tots of birds sitting silently in their nest ,

I saw everything with contentment ,

Consoled myself , I would come again ,

After a year or may be after ages ..........

Horizon opened its eyes , lightning dazzled in the sky ,

As if saying ..................

O Wanderer ! Would you ever even remember ? ]

VIDUR

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA

Manali trip details (coffeetimeconversations.wordpress.com)
Travel Guest Post: Mesmerizing Beauty of Kullu Manali & Shimla (jetsetera.net)
In the beautiful mountains (trektraveltadka.wordpress.com)
Tales From My Backpacking Trip – Day 5 (posteritythings.wordpress.com)
Manali is considered to be the Best Place for Honeymoon in India (theholidayindia.wordpress.com)
Manali – The Queen of beauty (zeopodes.wordpress.com)
Marvellous Manali !!!! (bhagwatijoshi11.wordpress.com)
Leh Safari (bellwort.wordpress.com)
CPCL wants ban to go on new projects at Manali (thehindu.com)
India’s hill towns getting hotter (todayonline.com)

Filed under: Travel Diaries | Tagged: Acting Trainer, Agyeya, Arjun, Bharat, Bheem, Bias, Bias River, Chandigarh, Deepika Padukone, Deoria, Dharma Productions, Diction Trainer, Dwaparyug, Film, Gulaba, Hadimba, Hadimba Temple, Hidimba, Hidimba Devi Temple, Himachal Pradesh, Hindi Poet Agyeya, Hindi Teacher, Hotel Manu Allaya, Hotel Manu Allaya Manali, Hotel Piccadilly, India, Kalki Koechlin, Kamal Nayan Chaturvedi, Karan Johar, King Bhadur Shah of Himachal, Kullu, Kullu - Manali, Ladakh, Lakshman, Leh, Mahapralaya, Manali, Manali Himachal Pradesh, Manu, Mumbai, MUMBAI - MAHARASHTRA - INDIA, Quality Inn River Country Resort, Queen of Hills Manali, Raja Dasharath, Rama, Ranbir Kapoor, River Bias, Rohtang Pass, Saawariya, Satyuga, Shatrughna, Shringi Rishi, Span Spa & Resort, The Mall, travel, Travel Diary, Tretayug, Trilokinath Temple, Trilokinath Temple of Chamba District, Union Territory Chandigarh, Vidur, Vidur Chaturvedi, Vidur on Twitter, Vidur's Blog, Vidur's Travel Diary, Yak | 3 Comments »

Vidur’s Travel Diary – 10 : Dabra

Posted on May 4, 2012 by VIDUR [ Kamal Nayan Chaturvedi ]

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA MAY 04 , 2012 01.55 A.M.

After Orchha visit on February 29 , 2012 , I returned to Dabra in the evening . Next day on March 01 , 2012 , it was party on the occasion of House – warming of Shri Ashok Tiwari .

As I had nothing to do any thing particular , I started roaming in the city and started thinking about my numerous Dabra visits . Dabra is a non – decrepit town in Gwalior district of Madhya Pradesh . It is not a historical place of repute . It has no significance in history of even Madhya Pradesh either . Dabra is just the ancestral town of my wife . This town is situated in between Gwalior and Datia / Jhansi . My wife’s grand – father , in search of greener pastures , went there in his younger days , bought huge tracts of land there and became permanent resident of Dabra , leaving his native place Ghortap in Deoria district of Uttar Pradesh .

Map showing location of Gwalior district in Madhya Pradesh

My wife spent most of her childhood there in the house , which her grand – father built . P

hotos of the house given below is the slightly altered version of the original house .

Ancestral House of My Wife at Dabra

Ancestral House of My Wife at Dabra

My Wife in Her Father’s Room

Gallery Leading to Aangan of old House

The facade and exterior of the house is changed . Photo , which I have posted above , shows the interiors of the old house . As I have stated in my earlier blog and if I am remembering correctly , I visited Dabra for the first time in 1977 / 78 . My wife’s grand – father was ill and I went to see him . Since then I had gone to Dabra many times .

As time passed and as family grew in numbers , every nuclear family of my in – laws started leaving old house and moved to the newly constructed mansions . Three swanky and huge mansions now stand in their farm land .

Road Leading to Tiwari Farm – Dabra

3 New Mansions As Seen from the Road

Bungalow of Shri Ram Sevak Tiwari

Bungalow of Shri Ram Sevak Tiwari – Side View

Bungalow of Shri Rang Nath Tiwari

Bungalow of Shri Rang Nath Tiwari – Side View

Bungalow of Shri Ashok Tiwari

Bungalow of Shri Ashok Tiwari – Side View

I don’t have photos of my wife’s grand – parents and her mother . But I do have few photos of some of her family members and I am posting them here .

With My Father – In – Law

My Wife With Her Father In front of Dabra House

With My Wife’s Brother Shri Deen Dayal Tiwari

With My Wife & Her Brother Shri Rang Nath Tiwari

With My Wife & Her Brother Shri Ashok Tiwari

With Shri Rang Nath Tiwari My Wefe's Nephew Manoj

With Shri Rang Nath Tiwari & My Wife’s Nephew Manoj

With My Wife’s Nephew Rakesh

With My Wife’s Nephew Brajesh

With My Wife's Nephews : Munna & Santosh

With My Wife’s Nephews : Rakesh & Santosh

With Shri Rang Nath Tiwari & My Wife’s Nephew Vivek

All these photos were clicked on various occasions . As I have stated earlier Dabra is a small , dusty and sleepy town . In a way , it resembles my own native place Deoria . I am posting few photographs of Dabra town here . I am starting with the Kanya Vidyalaya , where my wife studied .

Kanya Vidyalaya – Dabra

Main Road – Dabra

Another Road of Dabra

Main Road – Dabra in The Night

Main Street of Dabra During the Night

With the passage of time many things have changed in Dabra . The metamorphosis are striking . Town is now bigger . Roads are better . Swanky buildings and bungalows have sprung up in every nook and corner of Dabra .

There are changes in my wife’s family also . My wife’s grand – parents are long gone . My wife’s mother is also dead . Her eldest bhabhi too , died few years back on April 26 , 2010 . Whenever I visit Dabra and I see old Dabra house , I remember her . For me Dabra town and Dabra house came to be associated with her only . Due to huge age difference , I couldn’t talk much to my wife’s grand – parents . But her bhabhi was different . She was jovial , humane , very affectionate and was always there for us with smiling face . Whenever I used to visit Dabra , either alone or with my wife , she always stood at the main gate to welcome us . I can , even today , visualize her standing there with eyes wide open with joy and a pleasant smile on her face . After few day’s stay , when we prepared to leave Dabra for our journey back home , she always came to the Dabra railway station to say us goodbye . As our train started chugging out of the station , I can visualize and do remember her frail figure standing on the platform . I still remember her tear – filled eyes glued to our face , as if saying us to come soon and expecting us to return again . For me , she was not only my sister – in – law but in every aspect , she was my mother – in – law . With her demise , and that too at quite young age , significance of Dabra , for me , changed completely . It will never be same again for me . I associate Dabra with her existence and for me this equation is not going to change ever . I have her picture and I am posting it here .

My Wife’s Bhabhi [ Seated at Left ]

Old house of my in – laws will soon be demolished . With its demolition several old memories will also be gone forever . Some old workers and family – helpers will also cease to exist or have already faded away . I specially remember an old maid , Mathuro . She has already faded away with time .

I don’t know whether I would be again visiting Dabra or not . Whether it will be too soon or it would be many years away . Times have changed . Dabra is changed . Younger generation has taken control and they are firmly in saddle . Older generation is slowly fading away . A girl – child’s affection for her ancestral home does not ebb with time . So for my wife’s sake , I have to accompany her to Dabra , whenever there is some occasion / function . But this will happen only if I outlive her . But if I die before her , I don’t know whether my sons will take her there or not .

So now onwards , every visit of Dabra is perhaps , the last visit .

Remembering these lines of Agyeya , I ended my Dabra visit , took afternoon flight from Gwalior and reached Mumbai on March 02 , 2012 .

पार्श्व गिरि का नम्र चीड़ों में , डगर चढ़ती उमंगों सी ;

बिछी पैरों में नदी ज्यों दर्द की रेखा , विहग शिशु मौन नीड़ों में ;

मैंने आँख भर देखा , दिया मन को दिलासा ;

पुनः आऊँगा , भले ही बरस दिन , अनगिन युगों के बाद ;

क्षितिज ने पलक सी खोली , दमक कर दामिनी बोली ;

” अरे यायावर ! रहेगा याद ? “

………………………………………………..अज्ञेय

[ Tenderness of mighty mountains reflected in pine trees ,

Upward moving pathways symbolizing my enthusiasm ,

River , flowing deep down like a line of pain ,

Tiny tots of birds sitting silently in their nest ,

I saw everything with contentment ,

Consoled myself , I would come again ,

After a year or may be after ages ..........

Horizon opened its eyes , lightning dazzled in the sky ,

As if saying ..................

O Wanderer ! Would you ever even remember ? ]

VIDUR

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA

Filed under: Travel Diaries | Tagged: Acting Trainer, Agyeya, Dabra, Datia, Deoria, Diction Trainer, Gwalior, Gwalior Travelogue, Hindi Teacher, Jhansi, Kamal Nayan Chaturvedi, Madhya Pradesh, Mumbai, MUMBAI - MAHARASHTRA - INDIA, Orchha, Travel Diary, Travelogue, Uttar Pradesh, Vidur, Vidur Chaturvedi, Vidur on Twitter, Vidur's Blog, Vidur's Travel Diary | Leave a Comment »

Vidur’s Travel Diary – 9 : Orchha

Posted on April 29, 2012 by VIDUR [ Kamal Nayan Chaturvedi ]

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA APRIL 29 , 2012 01.30 A.M.

After finishing sight – seeing of Datia on February 27th and Gwalior on February 28th , I still had one day left . So I decided to visit Orchha also . I had visited it once . Many years ago I went to Jhansi for the thread ceremony of my nephew Ashwary Chaturvedi and after the ceremony was over , I went to Orchha . But I reached there in the night , so I could visit only the temple . Orchha Fort complex was closed . I returned with a heavy heart .

So I was not willing to let this opportunity go again . This time I started from Dabra in the morning on February 29th . I passed through Jhansi and since Orchha is only 16 kilometres from Jhansi , I reached there before noon .

Orchha town was built in the 16th century by Bundela Rajput chieftain Rudra Pratap on the banks of rocky Betwa river . Situated on Jhansi – Khajuraho road , it comes under Tikamgarh district of Bundelkhand region of Madhya Pradesh . Orchha is 170 km from Khajuraho and 16 km from Jhansi .

Rudra Pratap’s successor Bir Singh Ju Deo developed Orchha city in the 17th century . Orchha means hidden and in true sense of the term , Orchha is really hidden from the concrete jungles of modern-day .Even today it is a small town of few thousand people .

Starting from the 1531 AD , Bundela rajputs ruled Orchha for almost two centuries .

I first went to see Raghunath Ji temple . Idols of Bhagwan Ram , Sita and Lakshman are worshipped in a palace like structure . It is said that queen of Orchha brough the idols from Ayodhya . King of Orchha constructed a grand temple for the idols . This structure is known as Chaturbhuj Temple . It was ordained that the idol will remain where it will be kept first . When queen reached Orchha , it was night . Thinking that she will place idols in the main Chaturbhuj temple in the morning , queen kept the idols in her palace . In the morning , when queen tried to remove the idols from her palace to put it in the sanctum-sanatorium of Chaturbhuj temple , she failed . And since then her palace became the de – facto temple and grand Chaturbhuj temple , even today , remains vacant .

Raghunath Ji Temple Orchha

Original Raghunath Ji Temple in Orchha Which is Vacant

Original Chaturbhuj Temple in Orchha Which is Vacant

After darshan , I proceeded towards Fort complex . The complex has many palaces . Raja Mahal , Rai Praveen Mahal , Jahangir Mahal are magnificient example of Bundela art and architecture . I started from Deewan – E – Aam and Raja Mahal .

On The Betawa Bridge Connecting Orchha Palace Complex

On The Betwa Bridge Connecting Orchha City to Orchha Fort Complex

Fort Gate Orchha

Entrance of King's Palace

Deewan - E - Aam Orchha Palace

Front View of Deewan - E - Aam

Deewan - E - Aam Balcony From Where Kings Used to Address Crowd

A View of Raja Mahal With Stage for Plays

A View of Raja Mahal

Ceiling of King's Room in Raja Mahal

Walls of King's Room in Raja Mahal

Ceiling & Walls of King's Room in Raja Mahal

Ceiling & Walls of Queen's Room in Raja Mahal

Front View Raja Mahal Orchha

Once Royal Guest House - Now Heritage Hotel

After Raja Mahal , I proceeded for Jahangir Mahal with my wife . We entered in the palace from the back entrance . This palace was built by Bir Singh Ju Deo in the early part of 17 century to commemorate Jahangir’s Orchha visit .

Back Entrance of Jahangir Mahal

Jahangir Mahal Orchha - Interiors

Jahangir Mahal Orchha - Interior

Main Entrance of Jahangir Mahal Orchha

Rest House for Camels in Outer Compound

Rai Praveen Mahal was built for Rai Praveen , the beautiful paramour of Raja Indramani [ 1672 - 1676 ] . She was a poetess , musician and dancer of her time .

Rai Praveen Mahal As Seen from the Courtyard of Jahangir Mahal

Orchha Fort Complex from the Back of Jahangir Mahal

It was time to leave Orchha . I left the small town with heavy heart . Pristine beauty of Orchha and its grand , beautiful palaces are source of joy for ever . I visited it years ago . I could again visit it after many years . I don’t know whether I would be able to visit it again or not .

heart longs for one more visit . Fate says nothing and gives only an enigmatic smile .

पार्श्व गिरि का नम्र चीड़ों में , डगर चढ़ती उमंगों सी ;

बिछी पैरों में नदी ज्यों दर्द की रेखा , विहग शिशु मौन नीड़ों में ;

मैंने आँख भर देखा , दिया मन को दिलासा ;

पुनः आऊँगा , भले ही बरस दिन , अनगिन युगों के बाद ;

क्षितिज ने पलक सी खोली , दमक कर दामिनी बोली ;

” अरे यायावर ! रहेगा याद ? “

………………………………………………..अज्ञेय

[ Tenderness of mighty mountains reflected in pine trees ,

Upward moving pathways symbolizing my enthusiasm ,

River , flowing deep down like a line of pain ,

Tiny tots of birds sitting silently in their nest ,

I saw everything with contentment ,

Consoled myself , I would come again ,

After a year or may be after ages ..........

Horizon opened its eyes , lightning dazzled in the sky ,

As if saying ..................

O Wanderer ! Would you ever even remember ? ]

VIDUR

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA

Filed under: Travel Diaries | Tagged: Acting Trainer, Agyeya, Ayodhya, Betwa River, Bir Sigh Ju Deo, Bundela, Bundela Rajouts, Bundelkhand, Chaturbhuj Temple, Dabra, Datia, Diction Trainer, Gwalior, Hindi Teacher, India, Jahangir Mahal, Jahangir Mahal Orchha, Jhansi, Kamal Nayan Chaturvedi, Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, MUMBAI - MAHARASHTRA - INDIA, Orchha, Orchha Fort, Raghunath Ji Temple, Rai Praveen Mahal Orchha, Raja Indramani, Raja Indramani of Orchha, Raja Mahal Orchha, Raja Ram Temple, Rudra Pratap, Rudra Pratap Bundela, Tikamgarh, Travel Diary, Travelogue, Vidur, Vidur Chaturvedi, Vidur on Twitter, Vidur's Blog, Vidur's Travel Diary | 1 Comment »

Vidur’s Travel Diary – 8 : Gwalior [ C ]

Posted on April 27, 2012 by VIDUR [ Kamal Nayan Chaturvedi ]

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA APRIL 27 , 2012 09.30 P.M.

Gwalior travelogue is really getting longer . This is the third one .

But I clicked lots of photos and apart from that , Jai Vilas Palace and Gwalior fort are really historic and have many anecdotes worth telling , so I can not shorten the travelogue even if I wish to .

If I am remembering correctly , I visited Gwalior for the first time in 1977 / 78 . I went to visit Jai Vilas Palace and Gwalior fort for the first time on that visit . Since then I have visited these two places 3 / 4 times . But this time I went with renewed vigour and with different understanding and outlook .

I always knew that Gwalior is associated with legendary singer Tansen and Maharani Lakshmi Bai of Jhansi also . But I was unable to visit their memorials on my previous visits . This time I made it a point to include these memorials in my itinerary .

So after finishing visit of Gwalior fort , I went to see Tansen Mausoleum . I was excited as it was my first visit . Passing through the lanes and by – lanes of old Gwalior , my car stopped in front of an unimpressive iron gate . But as soon as I entered in the compound I was shocked to see a grand mausoleum .

This grand mausoleum belongs to Muhammad Ghaus , a venerable Sufi saint of those times and the mentor of Tansen . Tansen [ born 1493 or 1506 - died 1586 or 1589 ] was born as Ramtanu in a Hindu Gaur Brahman family . His musical talent came to prominence at the age of 5 . Initially he learnt music from Swami Haridas of Vrindavan . He rose to national prominence in the court of legendary Man Singh Tomar , the 10th Tomar King of Gwalior . In Man Singh Tomar’s court he became exponent of Dhrupad and made this form of Hindustani Classical music world-famous . Man Singh Tomar gave him title of ” Tansen ” . He , later on , joined the court of Ramchandra Baghela of Reva . Mughal emperor Akbar heard about him and invited him to his court . Tansen went there , joined his court and thus rose to prominence and immortality .

Later on he embraced Islam and married Akbar’s daughter Meherunnissa .

Mausoleum of Muhammad Ghaus - Sufi Saint & Tansen's Mentor

Mausoleum of Muhammad Ghaus - Sufi Saint & Tansen's Mentor - Main Entrance

Mausoleum of Tansen

Mausoleum of Tansen & Muhammad Ghaus As Seen from the Entrance Gate

Tansen's Mausoleum

From Tansen’s mausoleum , I drove to Maharani Lakshmi Bai memorial at Kotah Ki Serai near Phool Bagh . This world-famous queen of Jhansi [ November 19 , 1835 - June 17 , 1858 ] valiantly fought the British during 1st War of Independence of 1857 . She lost Jhansi fort due to treachery of her own people , came to Gwalior to seek help of Scindias but was not able to get their help . Scindia’s unflinching loyalty to their British masters and their non – cooperation to the freedom struggle drove Maharani Lakshmi Bai away from Gwalior and while crossing a nullah , which is still there , she was martyred by British army . She was only 23 years old at the time of her death .

Maharani Lakshmi Bai Memorial : The Place Where She Was Martyred

After paying my obeisance at the memorial of Maharani Lakshmi Bai , I was engulfed with emotions . It is sad to get martyred at the tender age of 23 . It is sad to not have a family life , which she definitely deserved . She died for the country at such a tender age but her memorial is not well – kept at all . Few months back I visited Rajiv Gandhi’s memorial at Sriperumbudur . It was so well maintained and beautifully kept , that I was amazed . I am not saying that Rajiv Gandhi’s memorial should not be maintained properly . But the memorial of Maharani Lakshmi Bai also deserves same treatment , if not better .

I am saddened by the neglect .

Evening started descending on the Gwalior city . It was time to leave . Same never-ending feeling engulfed me again and completely.

I remembered Agyeya’s famous lines and left Gwalior . Hope I would visit Gwalior again and really soon .

पार्श्व गिरि का नम्र चीड़ों में , डगर चढ़ती उमंगों सी ;

बिछी पैरों में नदी ज्यों दर्द की रेखा , विहग शिशु मौन नीड़ों में ;

मैंने आँख भर देखा , दिया मन को दिलासा ;

पुनः आऊँगा , भले ही बरस दिन , अनगिन युगों के बाद ;

क्षितिज ने पलक सी खोली , दमक कर दामिनी बोली ;

” अरे यायावर ! रहेगा याद ? “

………………………………………………..अज्ञेय

[ Tenderness of mighty mountains reflected in pine trees ,

Upward moving pathways symbolizing my enthusiasm ,

River , flowing deep down like a line of pain ,

Tiny tots of birds sitting silently in their nest ,

I saw everything with contentment ,

Consoled myself , I would come again ,

After a year or may be after ages ..........

Horizon opened its eyes , lightning dazzled in the sky ,

As if saying ..................

O Wanderer ! Would you ever even remember ? ]

VIDUR

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA

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Vidur’s Travel Diary – 8 : Gwalior [ B ]

Posted on April 26, 2012 by VIDUR [ Kamal Nayan Chaturvedi ]

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA APRIL 26 , 2012 03.45 P.M.

After completing my visit of Jai Vilas Palace , I headed for Gwalior Fort . This fort can be seen from the palace ground itself .

One of the biggest forts of India , Gwalior fort was described by Mughal Emperor Babur as ” The pearl in the necklace of the forts of Hind . ” It is spread over an area of 3 square kilometres . Its height is 35 feet .

Gwalior Fort As Seen from Jai Vilas Palace Groud

Gwalior Fort As Seen from Jai Vilas Palace Ground

Gwalior is an ancient city . It is said to be stablished by Maharaja Suraj Sen in the 6th century . As per the tradition and folklore , Maharaja Suraj Sen of Kachhwaha clan was a leper . Once , while hunting , he got thirsty and saw this small hillock , known as Gopachal or Gopagiri . He climbed the hillock in search of water and saw a hermit , sitting in a hut and meditating . His name was Galava a.k.a. Gwalia . Sage Galava gave him water to drink . After drinking water , Suraj Sen got cured . Indebted , Suraj Sen constructed this fort and named it Gwalior after sage Galava . Sage Galava renamed Suraj Sen as Suhan Pal and ordained him to keep Pal as his last name . He also said that as long as his progeny and descendents will keep Pal as their last name they will be rulers of this kingdom . Suhan Pal’s 83 generations kept Pal as their last name and they ruled Gwalior . 84th ruler Tej Karna Sen removed Pal and lost the kingdom . Kachhwaha rulers ruled Gwalior for 989 years . Then Pratihars became rulers of Gwalior .

Pratihar kings became rulers of Gwalior after Kachhwaha rulers . 6 generations of Pratihars rules Gwalior and then Sultans of Delhi became the rules for a brief period .

Gwalior fort was later associated with the Tomar rulers , specially Raja Man Singh Tomar . This happened in the 15th century . Raja Man Singh Tomar was the 10th Tomar king and was the most famous . His eternal love story with Gujar princess Mriganayani is still famous . Two of the most magnificent structures in the fort known as Man Mandir and Gujari Mahal , tell the story of his greatness . He was a great musician and is known as the father of the Dhrupad Gharana . Before moving to Akbar”s court , Tansen was the royal musician of his court . Last Tomar king , the 12th king Salivahan Tomar fought at Haldighati for Maharana Pratap .

Then the Mughals became the rulers . During Mughal rule Gwalior fort was used as a prison for special and important prisoners . Akbar imprisoned his first cousin Kamran in this fort and subsequently got him killed there . Aurangzeb also imprisoned and later on killed his brother Murad and his brother Dara Shikoh’s two sons . 6th Sikh Guru Hargobind Singh Ji was also imprisoned here .

When Mughal empire declined , Jats became the rulers for a brief period and finally Gwalior came under Maratha empire . Scindias conquered Gwalior and in 1810 Daulat Rao Scindia made Gwalior his army cantonment and thus Gwalior came to be associated with Scindias and Gwalior fort finally came under Scindia’s control .

Map of Gwalior Fort

Gwalior fort has many famous , magnificent and important structures within its precincts . Each ruler added some structure or other . There is no uniformity , but that , in a way , is the beauty of the fort also . I entered the fort from the southern gate because that is the only gate which has a road . I visited all the structures one by one .

Gwalior Fort - Approach Road Southern Gate

Ramparts of Gwalior Fort - Southern Gate

From southern gate when you move to the top , you can see ” intricately carved rock-cut temples of 21 Jain Tirthankars . “ One statue of Parshvanath , the 23rd Tirthankar , is 40 feet in height .

Statues of Jain Tirthankars

When you reach the top of the fort , the first main structure of importance is Gurudwara Data Bandi Chhor , built-in the memory of 6th Sikh Guru Shri Hargobind Singh Ji . Mughal emperor Jahangir imprisoned Guru Hargobind Ji in Gwalior fort for one year and later released him along with 52 fellow prisoners Hindu kings .

Gurudwara Data Bandi Chhor

When you proceed to northwards after visiting Gurudwara , the most famous , the most magnificent structure , which comes to draw your attention , is Man Mandir , palace of legendary Man Singh Tomar . Built between 1486 and 1517 , this grand palace still have some traces of colourful tiles , which adorned the outer walls once.

Man Mandir

King's Canopy In front of Man Mandir

Outer Walls of Man Mandir

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir - Northern Part

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir - Southern Part

Hathi Pole - Main Gate of Gwalior Fort

After having a round of Man Mandir , when you come out and proceed further northwards , there are several old dilapidated structures and crumbling palaces , which attract your attention . Most famous among them are ; Jahangir Mahal , Shahjahan Mahal , Vikram Mahal , Karan Mahal and of course Gujari Mahal .

Entrance of Jahangir Mahal

Jahangir Mahal - Interiors

Shahjahan Mahal

Hawa Mahal - In Between Jahangir Mahal & Shahjahan Mahal

Gujari Mahal As Visible from Hawa Mahal

Vikram Mahal

Karan Mahal

Gwalior City As Visible From the Fort

I completed visit of fort after this . Apart from above mentioned palaces , there are several others , which I missed . I could not visit Bhool – Bhulaiya , Teli Ka Mandir , Sas – Bahu Ka Mandir and Scindia Public School .

May be I would be able to visit these places next time . But will there be next time ? Would I be able to visit them again ? May be yes …… May be not …….

May be , I will be visiting the fort again in near future . May be , I will be visiting it after many years . May be never ……… may be never , ever ……….

Still I wish to visit Gwalior fort one more time . But ……………

Agyeya’s line come again to my mind .

पार्श्व गिरि का नम्र चीड़ों में , डगर चढ़ती उमंगों सी ;

बिछी पैरों में नदी ज्यों दर्द की रेखा , विहग शिशु मौन नीड़ों में ;

मैंने आँख भर देखा , दिया मन को दिलासा ;

पुनः आऊँगा , भले ही बरस दिन , अनगिन युगों के बाद ;

क्षितिज ने पलक सी खोली , दमक कर दामिनी बोली ;

” अरे यायावर ! रहेगा याद ? “

………………………………………………..अज्ञेय

[ Tenderness of mighty mountains reflected in pine trees ,

Upward moving pathways symbolizing my enthusiasm ,

River , flowing deep down like a line of pain ,

Tiny tots of birds sitting silently in their nest ,

I saw everything with contentment ,

Consoled myself , I would come again ,

After a year or may be after ages ..........

Horizon opened its eyes , lightning dazzled in the sky ,

As if saying ..................

O Wanderer ! Would you ever even remember ? ]

VIDUR

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA

Video of Jai Vilas Palace

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Vidur’s Travel Diary – 8 : Gwalior [ A ]

Posted on April 24, 2012 by VIDUR [ Kamal Nayan Chaturvedi ]

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA APRIL 24 , 2012 06.30 P.M.

As I have stated in my travel diary of Datia , I landed at Rajmata Vijaya Raje Scindia Airport , Gwalior on February 27 , 2012 evening . I immediately proceeded to Datia by car and after worshipping at Peetambara Peeth , returned to Dabra in the night.

Since the House – Warming party was on March 01 , 2012 , and I had two free days in between , I decided to visit Gwalior on February 28 , 2012 . I have been to Gwalior many times before . In fact I have lost count of my visits to Gwalior .

I reached Gwalior by car and went to see Jai Vilas Palace . Constructed in 1874 and designed by Lt. Col. Sir Michael , Jai Vilas Palace is located in the new city of Gwalior. It was house of the royal family of Scindias and now has been converted into museum .

[ I am re-producing some vital information about Jai Vilas Palace from the internet ]

” The Tuscan and Corinthian architectural modes are combined in Jai Vilas. The Darbar hall of the Palace is an imposing structure. Covered with heavy draperies and tapestries, fine Persian carpets and furniture from Italy and France occupy the spacious rooms.

The treasure of the palace includes a silver train which has cut glass wagons carrying wine and cigars after dinner, a glass cradle used for Lord Krishna on every Janamashtami, swords once worn by Aurangzeb and Shah Jehan.

35 of the rooms of the palace have been converted into the Scindia Museum and the rest of the rooms reflect the spender and glory that comes alive in the Italianate structures. Then there is a little room full of erotica, including a life-sized marble statue of Leda having her way with a swan. But the pièce de resistance is a model railway that carried brandy and cigars around the dining table after dinner. “

View of Jai Vilas Palace

View of Jai Vilas Palace Gate

Jai Vilas Palace Entrance

Current Residence of Scindias - A Part of Jai Vilas Palace

In The Courtyard of Jai Vilas Palace

Indoor Swimming Pool - Jai Vilas Palace

palanquins for Queens

Staircase Leading to !st Floor

Queen's Darbar Hall - Now Madhao Rao Scindia Memorial

Study Desk & Chair of Madhao Rao Scindia

Midget Queen's Bed Room

Queen's Bath Room

Queen's Dressing Room

Royal Armory

Royal Music Room

King's Bed Room

The Glass Cradle

Sitting Room

A Corridor

Coloured Glass Window

Ground Floor Courtyard - Near Darbar Hall

Ground Floor Verandah of Darbar Hall

Indian Style Dinning Hall

Western Style Dinning Hall

Railway Track of Cuisine Train on The Dinning Table

Cuisine Train Still in Running Condition

Staircase Leading to Darbar Hall on The 1st Floor

Golden Darbar Hall with 8 Ton Chandeliers

Another View of Darbar Hall

Gallery Leading to Outer Courtyard

Outer Gate of Jai Vilas Palace

Royal Railway Coach Parked in the Courtyard

After going through the palace and watching everything intently , I came out of palace . If I remember correctly , it was my third visit of the palace . And this time I watched everything with care and attention .

As usual , after my visit , I was wondering whether I would be able to come here again or not ?

Remembering these famous lines of Hindi poet Agyeya , I proceeded towards Gwalior fort .

पार्श्व गिरि का नम्र चीड़ों में , डगर चढ़ती उमंगों सी ;

बिछी पैरों में नदी ज्यों दर्द की रेखा , विहग शिशु मौन नीड़ों में ;

मैंने आँख भर देखा , दिया मन को दिलासा ;

पुनः आऊँगा , भले ही बरस दिन , अनगिन युगों के बाद ;

क्षितिज ने पलक सी खोली , दमक कर दामिनी बोली ;

” अरे यायावर ! रहेगा याद ? “

………………………………………………..अज्ञेय

[ Tenderness of mighty mountains reflected in pine trees ,

Upward moving pathways symbolizing my enthusiasm ,

River , flowing deep down like a line of pain ,

Tiny tots of birds sitting silently in their nest ,

I saw everything with contentment ,

Consoled myself , I would come again ,

After a year or may be after ages ..........

Horizon opened its eyes , lightning dazzled in the sky ,

As if saying ..................

O Wanderer ! Would you ever even remember ? ]

VIDUR

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA