Vidur’s Travel Diary – 8 : Gwalior [ C ]


MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA           APRIL 27 , 2012           09.30 P.M.

Gwalior travelogue is really getting longer . This is the third one . 

But I clicked lots of photos and apart from that , Jai Vilas Palace and Gwalior fort are really historic and have many anecdotes worth telling , so I can not shorten the travelogue even if I wish to .

If I am remembering correctly , I visited Gwalior for the first time in 1977 / 78 . I went to visit Jai Vilas Palace and Gwalior fort for the first time on that visit . Since then I have visited these two places  3 / 4 times . But this time I went with renewed vigour and with different understanding and outlook .

I always knew that Gwalior is associated with legendary singer Tansen and Maharani Lakshmi Bai of Jhansi also . But I was unable to visit their memorials on my previous visits . This time I made it a point to include these memorials in my itinerary .

So after finishing visit of Gwalior fort , I went to see Tansen Mausoleum . I was excited as it was my first visit . Passing through the lanes and by – lanes of old Gwalior , my car stopped in front of an unimpressive iron gate . But as soon as I entered in the compound I was shocked to see a grand mausoleum .

This grand mausoleum belongs to Muhammad Ghaus , a venerable Sufi saint of those times and the mentor of Tansen . Tansen [ born 1493 or 1506  – died 1586 or 1589 ] was born as Ramtanu in a Hindu Gaur Brahman family . His musical talent came to prominence at the age of 5 . Initially he learnt music from Swami Haridas of Vrindavan . He rose to national prominence in the court of legendary Man Singh Tomar , the 10th Tomar King of Gwalior . In Man Singh Tomar’s court he became exponent of Dhrupad and made this form of Hindustani Classical music world-famous . Man Singh Tomar gave him title of  ” Tansen ” . He , later on ,  joined the court of Ramchandra Baghela of Reva . Mughal emperor Akbar heard about him and invited him to his court . Tansen went there , joined his court and thus rose to prominence and immortality .

Later on he embraced Islam and married Akbar’s daughter Meherunnissa .

Mausoleum of Muhammad Ghaus - Sufi Saint & Tansen's Mentor

Mausoleum of Muhammad Ghaus - Sufi Saint & Tansen's Mentor

Mausoleum of Muhammad Ghaus - Sufi Saint & Tansen's Mentor

Mausoleum of Muhammad Ghaus - Sufi Saint & Tansen's Mentor

Mausoleum of Muhammad Ghaus - Sufi Saint & Tansen's Mentor

Mausoleum of Muhammad Ghaus - Sufi Saint & Tansen's Mentor - Main Entrance

Mausoleum of Tansen

Mausoleum of Tansen

Mausoleum of Tansen & Muhammad Ghaus As Seen from the Entrance

Mausoleum of Tansen & Muhammad Ghaus As Seen from the Entrance Gate

Tansen's Mausoleum

Tansen's Mausoleum

From Tansen’s mausoleum , I drove to Maharani Lakshmi Bai memorial at Kotah Ki Serai near Phool Bagh . This world-famous queen of Jhansi [ November 19 , 1835 – June 17 , 1858 ] valiantly fought the British during 1st War of Independence of 1857 . She lost Jhansi fort due to treachery of her own people , came to Gwalior to seek help of Scindias but was not able to get their help . Scindia’s unflinching loyalty to their British masters and their non – cooperation to the freedom struggle drove Maharani Lakshmi Bai away from Gwalior and while crossing a nullah , which is still there , she was martyred by British army . She was only 23 years old at the time of her death .

Maharani Lakshmi Bai Memorial : The Place Where She Was Martyred

Maharani Lakshmi Bai Memorial : The Place Where She Was Martyred

Maharani Lakshmi Bai Memorial : The Place Where She Was Martyred

Maharani Lakshmi Bai Memorial : The Place Where She Was Martyred

Maharani Lakshmi Bai Memorial : The Place Where She Was Martyred

Maharani Lakshmi Bai Memorial : The Place Where She Was Martyred

After paying my obeisance at the memorial of Maharani Lakshmi Bai , I was engulfed with emotions . It is sad to get martyred at the tender age of 23 . It is sad to not have a family life , which she definitely deserved . She died for the country at such a tender age but her memorial is not well – kept at all . Few months back I visited Rajiv Gandhi’s memorial at Sriperumbudur . It was so well maintained and beautifully kept , that I was amazed . I am not saying that Rajiv Gandhi’s memorial should not be maintained properly . But the memorial of Maharani Lakshmi Bai also deserves same treatment , if not better .

I am saddened by the neglect .

Evening started descending on the Gwalior city . It was time to leave . Same never-ending feeling engulfed me again and completely.

I remembered Agyeya’s famous lines and left Gwalior . Hope I would visit Gwalior again and really soon .

पार्श्व गिरि का नम्र चीड़ों में , डगर चढ़ती उमंगों सी ;

बिछी पैरों में नदी ज्यों दर्द की रेखा , विहग शिशु मौन नीड़ों में ; 

मैंने आँख भर देखा , दिया मन को दिलासा ; 
पुनः आऊँगा , भले ही बरस दिन , अनगिन युगों के बाद ;

क्षितिज ने पलक सी खोली , दमक कर दामिनी बोली ;
” अरे यायावर ! रहेगा याद ? “
………………………………………………..अज्ञेय 
[ Tenderness of mighty mountains reflected in pine trees ,
Upward moving pathways symbolizing my enthusiasm ,
River , flowing deep down like a line of pain ,
Tiny tots of birds sitting silently in their nest ,
I saw everything with contentment ,
Consoled myself , I would come again ,
After a year or may be after ages ……….
Horizon opened its eyes , lightning dazzled in the sky ,
As if saying ………………
O Wanderer ! Would you ever even remember ? ]

Vidur’s Travel Diary – 8 : Gwalior [ B ]


MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA           APRIL 26 , 2012           03.45 P.M.

After completing my visit of Jai Vilas Palace , I headed for Gwalior Fort . This fort can be seen from the palace ground itself .

One of the biggest forts of India , Gwalior fort was described by Mughal Emperor Babur as ” The pearl in the necklace of the forts of  Hind . ” It is spread over an area of 3 square kilometres . Its height is 35 feet .

Gwalior Fort As Seen from Jai Vilas Palace Groud

Gwalior Fort As Seen from Jai Vilas Palace Ground

Gwalior is an ancient city . It is said to be stablished by Maharaja Suraj Sen in the 6th century . As per the tradition and folklore , Maharaja Suraj Sen of Kachhwaha clan was a leper . Once , while hunting , he got thirsty and saw this small hillock , known as Gopachal or Gopagiri . He climbed the hillock in search of water and saw a hermit , sitting in a hut and meditating . His name was Galava a.k.a. Gwalia . Sage Galava gave him water to drink . After drinking water , Suraj Sen got cured . Indebted , Suraj Sen constructed this fort and named it Gwalior after sage Galava . Sage Galava renamed Suraj Sen as Suhan Pal and ordained him to keep Pal as his last name . He also said that as long as his progeny and descendents will keep Pal as their last name they will be rulers of this kingdom . Suhan Pal’s 83 generations kept Pal as their last name and they ruled Gwalior . 84th ruler Tej Karna Sen removed Pal and lost the kingdom . Kachhwaha rulers ruled Gwalior for 989 years . Then Pratihars became rulers of Gwalior .

Pratihar kings became rulers of Gwalior after Kachhwaha rulers . 6 generations of Pratihars rules Gwalior and then Sultans of Delhi became the rules for a brief period .

Gwalior fort was later associated with the Tomar rulers , specially Raja Man Singh Tomar . This happened in the 15th century . Raja Man Singh Tomar was the 10th Tomar king and was the most famous . His eternal love story with Gujar princess Mriganayani is still famous . Two of the most magnificent structures in the fort known as Man Mandir and Gujari Mahal , tell the story of his greatness . He was a great musician and is known as the father of the Dhrupad Gharana . Before moving to Akbar”s court , Tansen was the royal musician of his court . Last Tomar king , the 12th king Salivahan Tomar fought at Haldighati for Maharana Pratap .

Then the Mughals became the rulers . During Mughal rule Gwalior fort was used as a prison for special and important prisoners . Akbar imprisoned his first cousin Kamran in this fort and subsequently got him killed there . Aurangzeb also imprisoned and later on killed his brother Murad and his brother Dara Shikoh’s two sons . 6th Sikh Guru Hargobind Singh Ji was also imprisoned here .

When Mughal empire declined , Jats became the rulers for a brief period and finally Gwalior came under Maratha empire . Scindias conquered Gwalior and in 1810 Daulat Rao Scindia made Gwalior his army cantonment and thus Gwalior came to be associated with Scindias and Gwalior fort finally came under Scindia’s control .

Map of Gwalior Fortress Català: Mapa de la for...

Map of Gwalior Fort

Gwalior fort has many famous , magnificent and important structures within its precincts . Each ruler added some structure or other . There is no uniformity , but that , in a way , is the beauty of the fort also . I entered the fort from the southern gate because that is the only gate which has a road . I visited all the structures one by one .

Gwalior Fort - Approach Road Southern Gate

Gwalior Fort - Approach Road Southern Gate

Ramparts of Gwalior Fort - Southern Gate

Ramparts of Gwalior Fort - Southern Gate

From southern gate when you move to the top , you can see ” intricately carved rock-cut temples of 21 Jain Tirthankars . “ One statue of Parshvanath , the 23rd Tirthankar , is 40 feet in height .

Statues of Jain Tirthankars

Statues of Jain Tirthankars

When you reach the top of the fort , the first main structure of importance is Gurudwara Data Bandi Chhor , built-in the memory of 6th Sikh Guru Shri Hargobind Singh Ji . Mughal emperor Jahangir imprisoned Guru Hargobind Ji in Gwalior fort for one year and later released him along with 52 fellow prisoners Hindu kings .

Gurudwara Data Bandi Chhor

Gurudwara Data Bandi Chhor

When you proceed to northwards after visiting Gurudwara , the most famous , the most magnificent structure , which comes to draw your attention , is Man Mandir , palace of legendary Man Singh Tomar . Built between 1486 and 1517 , this grand palace still have some traces of colourful tiles , which adorned the outer walls once.

Man Mandir

Man Mandir

Man Mandir Ground & King's Canopy

King's Canopy In front of Man Mandir

Outer Walls of Man Mandir

Outer Walls of Man Mandir

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir - Northern Part

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir - Southern Part

Ornate Interiors of Man Mandir - Southern Part

Hathi Pole - Main Gate of Gwalior Fort

Hathi Pole - Main Gate of Gwalior Fort

After having a round of Man Mandir , when you come out and proceed further northwards , there are several old dilapidated structures and crumbling palaces , which attract your attention . Most famous among them are ; Jahangir Mahal , Shahjahan Mahal , Vikram Mahal , Karan Mahal and of course Gujari Mahal .

Entrance of Jahangir Mahal

Entrance of Jahangir Mahal

Jahangir Mahal - Interiors

Jahangir Mahal - Interiors

Shahjahan Mahal

Shahjahan Mahal

Hawa Mahal - In Between Jahangir Mahal & Shahjahan Mahal

Hawa Mahal - In Between Jahangir Mahal & Shahjahan Mahal

Gujari Mahal As Visible from Hawa Mahal

Gujari Mahal As Visible from Hawa Mahal

Gujari Mahal As Visible from Hawa Mahal

Gujari Mahal As Visible from Hawa Mahal

Vikram Mahal

Vikram Mahal

Vikram Mahal

Vikram Mahal

Karan Mahal

Karan Mahal

Karan Mahal

Karan Mahal

Gwalior City As Visible From the Fort

Gwalior City As Visible From the Fort

I completed visit of fort after this . Apart from above mentioned palaces , there are several others , which I missed . I could not visit Bhool – Bhulaiya , Teli Ka Mandir , Sas – Bahu Ka Mandir and Scindia Public School .

May be I would be able to visit these places next time . But will there be next time ? Would I be able to visit them again ? May be yes …… May be not …….

May be , I will be visiting the fort again in near future . May be , I will be visiting it after many years . May be never ……… may be never , ever ……….

Still I wish to visit Gwalior fort one more time . But ……………

Agyeya’s line come again to my mind .

पार्श्व गिरि का नम्र चीड़ों में , डगर चढ़ती उमंगों सी ;

बिछी पैरों में नदी ज्यों दर्द की रेखा , विहग शिशु मौन नीड़ों में ; 

मैंने आँख भर देखा , दिया मन को दिलासा ; 
पुनः आऊँगा , भले ही बरस दिन , अनगिन युगों के बाद ;

क्षितिज ने पलक सी खोली , दमक कर दामिनी बोली ;
” अरे यायावर ! रहेगा याद ? “
………………………………………………..अज्ञेय 
[ Tenderness of mighty mountains reflected in pine trees ,
Upward moving pathways symbolizing my enthusiasm ,
River , flowing deep down like a line of pain ,
Tiny tots of birds sitting silently in their nest ,
I saw everything with contentment ,
Consoled myself , I would come again ,
After a year or may be after ages ……….
Horizon opened its eyes , lightning dazzled in the sky ,
As if saying ………………
O Wanderer ! Would you ever even remember ? ]

VIDUR

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA

www.vidur.co.in

www.vidurfilms.com

www.twitter.com/VidurChaturvedi

www.jaibhojpuri.com/profile/VidurChaturvedi


Vidur’s Travel Diary – 8 : Gwalior [ A ]


MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA           APRIL 24 , 2012           06.30 P.M.

As I have stated in my travel diary of Datia , I landed at Rajmata Vijaya Raje Scindia Airport , Gwalior on February 27 , 2012 evening . I immediately proceeded to Datia by car and after worshipping at Peetambara Peeth , returned to Dabra in the night.

Since the House – Warming party was on March 01 , 2012 , and I had two free days in between , I decided to visit Gwalior on February 28 , 2012 . I have been to Gwalior many times before . In fact I have lost count of my visits to Gwalior .

I reached Gwalior by car and went to see Jai Vilas Palace . Constructed in 1874 and designed by Lt. Col. Sir Michael , Jai Vilas Palace is located in the new city of Gwalior. It was house of the royal family of Scindias and now has been converted into museum .

[ I am re-producing some vital information about Jai Vilas Palace from the internet ]

” The Tuscan and Corinthian architectural modes are combined in Jai Vilas. The Darbar hall of the Palace is an imposing structure. Covered with heavy draperies and tapestries, fine Persian carpets and furniture from Italy and France occupy the spacious rooms.

The treasure of the palace includes a silver train which has cut glass wagons carrying wine and cigars after dinner, a glass cradle used for Lord Krishna on every Janamashtami, swords once worn by Aurangzeb and Shah Jehan.

35 of the rooms of the palace have been converted into the Scindia Museum and the rest of the rooms reflect the spender and glory that comes alive in the Italianate structures. Then there is a little room full of erotica, including a life-sized marble statue of Leda having her way with a swan. But the pièce de resistance is a model railway that carried brandy and cigars around the dining table after dinner. “

View of Jai Vilas Palace

View of Jai Vilas Palace

View of Jai Vilas Palace Gate

View of Jai Vilas Palace Gate

Jai Vilas Palace Entrance

Jai Vilas Palace Entrance

Current Residence of Scindias - A Part of Jai Vilas Palace

Current Residence of Scindias - A Part of Jai Vilas Palace

In The Courtyard of Jai Vilas Palace

In The Courtyard of Jai Vilas Palace

Indoor Swimming Pool - Jai Vilas Palace

Indoor Swimming Pool - Jai Vilas Palace

Palanquin for Queens

palanquins for Queens

Staircase Leading to !st Floor

Staircase Leading to !st Floor

Queen's Darbar Hall - Now Madhao Rao Scindia Memorial

Queen's Darbar Hall - Now Madhao Rao Scindia Memorial

Study Desk & Chair of Madhao Rao Scindia

Study Desk & Chair of Madhao Rao Scindia

Miget Queen's Bed Room

Midget Queen's Bed Room

Queen's Bath Room

Queen's Bath Room

Queen's Dressing Room

Queen's Dressing Room

Royal Armory

Royal Armory

Royal Music Room

Royal Music Room

King's Bed Room

King's Bed Room

The Throne

The Glass Cradle

Sitting Room

Sitting Room

A Corridor

A Corridor

Coloured Glass Window

Coloured Glass Window

Groun Floor Courtyard - Darbar Hall

Ground Floor Courtyard - Near Darbar Hall

Ground Floor Verandah of Darbar Hall

Ground Floor Verandah of Darbar Hall

Indian Style Dinning Hall

Indian Style Dinning Hall

Western Style Dinning Hall

Western Style Dinning Hall

Railway Track of Cuisine Train on The Dinning Table

Railway Track of Cuisine Train on The Dinning Table

Cuisine Train  Still in Running Condition

Cuisine Train Still in Running Condition

Staircase Leading to Darbar Hall on The 1st Floor

Staircase Leading to Darbar Hall on The 1st Floor

Golden Darbar Hall with 8 Ton Chandelier

Golden Darbar Hall with 8 Ton Chandeliers

Another View of Darbar Hall

Another View of Darbar Hall

Gallery Leading to Outer Courtyard

Gallery Leading to Outer Courtyard

Outer Gate of Jai Vilas Palace

Outer Gate of Jai Vilas Palace

Royal Railway Coach Parked in the Courtyard

Royal Railway Coach Parked in the Courtyard

After going through the palace and watching everything intently , I came out of palace . If I remember correctly , it was my third visit of the palace . And this time I watched everything with care and attention .

Video of Jai Vilas Palace

As usual , after my visit , I was wondering whether I would be able to come here again or not ?

Remembering these famous lines of Hindi poet Agyeya , I proceeded towards Gwalior fort .

पार्श्व गिरि का नम्र चीड़ों में , डगर चढ़ती उमंगों सी ;

बिछी पैरों में नदी ज्यों दर्द की रेखा , विहग शिशु मौन नीड़ों में ; 

मैंने आँख भर देखा , दिया मन को दिलासा ; 
पुनः आऊँगा , भले ही बरस दिन , अनगिन युगों के बाद ;

क्षितिज ने पलक सी खोली , दमक कर दामिनी बोली ;
” अरे यायावर ! रहेगा याद ? “
………………………………………………..अज्ञेय 
[ Tenderness of mighty mountains reflected in pine trees ,
Upward moving pathways symbolizing my enthusiasm ,
River , flowing deep down like a line of pain ,
Tiny tots of birds sitting silently in their nest ,
I saw everything with contentment ,
Consoled myself , I would come again ,
After a year or may be after ages ……….
Horizon opened its eyes , lightning dazzled in the sky ,
As if saying ………………
O Wanderer ! Would you ever even remember ? ]

VIDUR

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA

www.vidur.co.in

www.vidurfilms.com

www.twitter.com/VidurChaturvedi

www.jaibhojpuri.com/profile/VidurChaturvedi


ErikaBeyk

This WordPress.com site is about Health and Wellbeing

Arun Shanbhag

Life is Beautiful, Live it the fullest

WordPress.com

WordPress.com is the best place for your personal blog or business site.

The WordPress.com Blog

The latest news on WordPress.com and the WordPress community.

%d bloggers like this: