Vidur’s Travel Diary – 9 : Orchha


MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA           APRIL 29 , 2012           01.30 A.M.

After finishing sight – seeing of Datia on February 27th and Gwalior on February 28th , I still had one day left . So I decided to visit Orchha also . I had visited it once . Many years ago I went to Jhansi for the thread ceremony of my nephew Ashwary Chaturvedi and after the ceremony was over , I went to Orchha . But I reached there in the night , so I could visit only the temple . Orchha Fort complex was closed . I returned with a heavy heart .

So I was not willing to let this opportunity go again . This time I started from Dabra in the morning on February 29th . I passed through Jhansi and since Orchha is only 16 kilometres from Jhansi , I reached there before noon .

Orchha town was built in the 16th century by Bundela Rajput chieftain Rudra Pratap on the banks of rocky Betwa river . Situated on Jhansi – Khajuraho road , it comes under Tikamgarh district of Bundelkhand region of Madhya Pradesh . Orchha is 170 km from Khajuraho and 16 km from Jhansi .

Rudra Pratap’s successor Bir Singh Ju Deo developed Orchha city in the 17th century . Orchha means hidden and in true sense of the term , Orchha is really hidden from the concrete jungles of modern-day .Even today it is a small town of few thousand people .

Starting from the 1531 AD , Bundela rajputs ruled Orchha for almost two centuries .

I first went to see Raghunath Ji temple . Idols of Bhagwan Ram , Sita and Lakshman are worshipped in a palace like structure . It is said that queen of Orchha brough the idols from Ayodhya . King of Orchha constructed a grand temple for the idols . This structure is known as Chaturbhuj Temple . It was ordained that the idol will remain where it will be kept first . When queen reached Orchha , it was night . Thinking that she will place idols in the main Chaturbhuj temple in the morning , queen kept the idols in her palace . In the morning , when queen tried to remove the idols from her palace to put it in the sanctum-sanatorium of Chaturbhuj temple , she failed . And since then her palace became the de – facto temple and grand Chaturbhuj temple , even today , remains vacant .

Raghunath Ji Temple Orchha

Raghunath Ji Temple Orchha

Original Raghunath Ji Temple in Orchha Which is Vacant

Original Chaturbhuj Temple in Orchha Which is Vacant

After darshan , I proceeded towards Fort complex . The complex has many palaces . Raja Mahal , Rai Praveen Mahal , Jahangir Mahal are magnificient example of Bundela art and architecture . I started from Deewan – E – Aam and Raja Mahal .

On The Betawa Bridge Connecting Orchha Palace Complex

On The Betwa Bridge Connecting Orchha City to Orchha Fort Complex

Palace Gate Orchha

Fort Gate Orchha

Entrance of King's Palace

Entrance of King's Palace

Deewan - E - Aam Orchha Palace

Deewan - E - Aam Orchha Palace

Front View of Darbar - E - Aam

Front View of Deewan - E - Aam

Deewan - E - Aam Balcony From Where Kings Used to Address Crowd

Deewan - E - Aam Balcony From Where Kings Used to Address Crowd

A View of Raja Mahal

A View of Raja Mahal With Stage for Plays

A View of Raja Mahal

A View of Raja Mahal

A View of Raja Mahal

A View of Raja Mahal

Ceiling of King's Room in Raja Mahal

Ceiling of King's Room in Raja Mahal

Walls of King's Room in Raja Mahal

Walls of King's Room in Raja Mahal

Ceiling & Walls of King's Room in Raja Mahal

Ceiling & Walls of King's Room in Raja Mahal

Ceiling & Walls of Queen's Room in Raja Mahal

Ceiling & Walls of Queen's Room in Raja Mahal

Front View Raja Mahal Orchha

Front View Raja Mahal Orchha

Once Royal Guest House - Now Heritage Hotel

Once Royal Guest House - Now Heritage Hotel

After Raja Mahal , I proceeded for Jahangir Mahal with my wife . We entered in the palace from the back entrance . This palace was built by Bir Singh Ju Deo in the early part of 17 century to commemorate Jahangir’s Orchha visit .

Back Entrance of Jahangir Mahal

Back Entrance of Jahangir Mahal

Back Entrance of Jahangir Mahal

Back Entrance of Jahangir Mahal

Back Entrance of Jahangir Mahal

Back Entrance of Jahangir Mahal

Jahangir Mahal Orchha

Jahangir Mahal Orchha - Interiors

Jahangir Mahal Orchha - Interior

Jahangir Mahal Orchha - Interior

Jahangir Mahal Orchha - Interior

Jahangir Mahal Orchha - Interior

Main Entrance  of Jahangir Mahal Orchha

Main Entrance of Jahangir Mahal Orchha

Main Entrance  of Jahangir Mahal Orchha

Main Entrance of Jahangir Mahal Orchha

Rest House for Camels in Outer Compound

Rest House for Camels in Outer Compound

Rai Praveen Mahal was built for Rai Praveen , the beautiful paramour of Raja Indramani [ 1672 – 1676 ] . She was a poetess , musician and dancer of her time .

Rai Praveen Mahal As Seen from the Courtyard of Jahangir Mahal

Rai Praveen Mahal As Seen from the Courtyard of Jahangir Mahal

Orchha Fort Complex

Orchha Fort Complex from the Back of Jahangir Mahal

It was time to leave Orchha . I left the small town with heavy heart . Pristine beauty of Orchha and its grand , beautiful palaces are source of joy for ever . I visited it years ago . I could again visit it after many years . I don’t know whether I would be able to visit it again or not .

heart longs for one more visit . Fate says nothing and gives only an enigmatic smile .

पार्श्व गिरि का नम्र चीड़ों में , डगर चढ़ती उमंगों सी ;

बिछी पैरों में नदी ज्यों दर्द की रेखा , विहग शिशु मौन नीड़ों में ; 

मैंने आँख भर देखा , दिया मन को दिलासा ; 
पुनः आऊँगा , भले ही बरस दिन , अनगिन युगों के बाद ;

क्षितिज ने पलक सी खोली , दमक कर दामिनी बोली ;
” अरे यायावर ! रहेगा याद ? “
………………………………………………..अज्ञेय 
[ Tenderness of mighty mountains reflected in pine trees ,
Upward moving pathways symbolizing my enthusiasm ,
River , flowing deep down like a line of pain ,
Tiny tots of birds sitting silently in their nest ,
I saw everything with contentment ,
Consoled myself , I would come again ,
After a year or may be after ages ……….
Horizon opened its eyes , lightning dazzled in the sky ,
As if saying ………………
O Wanderer ! Would you ever even remember ? ]

VIDUR

MUMBAI – MAHARASHTRA – INDIA

www.vidur.co.in

www.vidurfilms.com

www.twitter.com/VidurChaturvedi

www.jaibhojpuri.com/profile/VidurChaturvedi

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One Response

  1. amazing articulation sir… you have penned down your experience with perfection… loved reading it…

    Like

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